Saying Hi

Hey Aggrex I noticed that they put a 180 amp alternator in to replace my 220 amp alternator. The part number is - 4801833ab and it’s from a Chrysler 300. Could this be my culprit!!?? I guess my other thought is if that part is recalled why would they use it?

 

IMO unless you have high draw accessories I doubt a 180 amp alt would cause immediate issues

 

For some reason my battery was at 41%. Also for some reason my camshaft sensor keeps getting thrown and car is driving bad and stalling out...then engine light comes on and then windows are going down by themselves with car off and locks going up/down, and lights coming on for no reason.

where I am at now is they are saying Tone Ring but that seems crazy. All of my problems (before I bought the car an Alternator and PCM were replaced) and it seems like now it has caused the camshaft sensor codes and engine light to come on...and then after they reset it I experience engine light coming back on after a week and then stalling out and weird windows, door locks, and lights.

my question is - a Tone Ring wouldn’t do this...right?

 

Today the plot thickens - the Dealership put in a new battery. Weird right....!!! After it had no voltage or something was connected back on Wednesday when I went to go get it.

Could all of this crap for the last 7 months really been over a battery!!!??? I will see tomorrow when I go get it...

 

Battery did not fix it....so I’m still at a wire/ground problem or tone ring. Taking it to a new shop on Monday...

 

The reason I refer to this Alternator is because I see a recall on that part number. I called Chrysler but they weren’t all that helpful. Back in April the Jeep was brought to dealership for Battery Light on. Fix was to replace 220amp alt with 180amp and replacement of PCM. I of course do not know how the car was riding during this time...was it riding rough? It apparently wasn’t/or hadn’t yet pulled the engine light and P0334 camshaft sensor codes. So I am thinking it’s still a wire/ground problem and or Alternator is causing this....or a tone ring. I don’t know enough about Tone/Reluctor Rings. It’s riding rough and most noticeable in the 60-70 mph range but when past 70 it feels like it smooths out.

 

The story gets worse - I bring it to another mechanic and he acts like he doesn’t know what to do without a code!!! Wth!!
I have the code it’s going to throw and I know when it’s thrown it’s going to point to everything I’m stating....ohhhhh my! On to the next guy

 

I keep getting a camshaft sensor code - P0334

 

Sensors changed multiple times, wire harness, PCM, battery, and then a couple other unrelated things. It’s some sort of voltage irregularity, bad ground, loose wire, short in Alternator??

 

It is pulling an intermittent P0330 code now

 

Did you see my latest post as this my latest code. Before it was just pulling the P0334 code

 

No it hasn’t. In the past all I knew was it throwing the camshaft sensor - p0334 code. Dealership replaced - wire harness, pcm, Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors. Never resolved my issues.

so I buy my own code reader and after driving 10 miles the P0330 code appears! So I still have a short to ground, open circuit - is it just that the Knock Sensor needs replacement!!??

 

I need a good service manual

 

Apparently the knock sensor P0330 code is intermittent. Seems like dealership could not produce it on their reader. I got it to hit with my reader in 10 minutes of driving.

 

I could use a good video on how to replace that knock sensor. I also could use a service manual and wiring diagram...