2004 WJ Electrical Issues

4.0 Jeep WJ people, I have a question. I recently went out in the trails in my Jeep and got bogged down as the hole was deeper than I anticipated (my fault). After getting dragged out, I went to the pressure washer and the Jeep ran fine. I shut it off at a friends place and it started back up no problem.

The next day I went to start it and it was giving me the error that the key was not right, so it would fire right up and shut itself off again. After I figured a way around that when I get it to run, I can switch the ignition off and take out the key and it still runs. When you plug the battery in the engine light is flashing, the check gauges light is on, the security key light is on and the gas gauge is indicating. This is all before putting the key in the ignition.

I thought maybe it was a bad ground so I went searching and found the ground strap was completely shredded. I replaced that and it made no difference.

I am completely stumped and it will take someone a lot smarter than me to figure this out.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

How did the ground strap get shredded anyway? If you have one of those steel braided ground straps I am quite surprised that manufacturers are still using those crappy things. The best bet would be to get a length of copper wire, around a #4 type with soldered terminal ends. Steel is a poor conductor of electricity, yet cheaper than copper wire. I think water has caused you issues and hopefully drying it out should help. Removing the positive cable from the battery for about 30 seconds can reset the computer if everything else is o.k.

 

It was a green strap that seems to be in all pictures. I replaced it with a steel beaded one that is much wider from the parts store.

 

no problem, attach your scanner to jeep copy and post ALL codes.
Might try your other key advise.
DO you have a remote starter AKA POS ?

explain "After I figured a way around that when I get it to run" what did you do?

this is a grand cherokee WJ with a 4.0L? what year?

 

OK duh I see it now in the tittle a 2004....
only after I closed my reply IDK

 

My scanner is only throwing an over voltage code for the O2 sensor which it has had before I bogged it.

I found a way around the SKIF by putting the key in the ignition before re attaching the negative terminal. It doesn’t give me the key error then. But it will not shut off when turning off the ignition.

It has me so confused.

 

your scanner will show all codes?
I ask because you said the CEL is on and flashing? correct this is indicative of a serious (expensive) issue pending.


Also you said the SKIM/SKIS light is on and a code would be set.
Acronym = Security Key Imoblizer Module and or System.

interesting - your work around, look at the ASD relay it may be fused closed... swap with a like relay for testing..
Again do you have a remote start?
What about second key?

stop removing the battery power - it dumps presets and stored addapatives as well as information needed for repairs ie freeze frame and ALL codes..

with battery connected-
the CEL is on?
the SKIS light is on?
engine will start for @ 2 seconds then turn off?

 

My scanner generally shows all codes. It does for my 2004 BMW thus far.

The engine light turns off when I use the work around for the SKIM. The engine runs perfect when I reconnect the negative with the key in the ignition or disconnect the wire to the skim and put the key in and reconnect the SKIm wire in the steering column.

However after I have it running the ignition will not shut the engine down. It continues to run after I switch the ignition off and remove the key. When I switch it off it acts as if it wants to shut off but then it’s as if there’s a signal sent to the engine to keep firing.

I’m completely lost here.

 

I do not have remote start or a second key. I have one key and one fob

With battery connected and the key not in the ignition at time of the battery reconnect, the SKIM light is on, the check gauges light is on, and the fuel tank is indicating.

If the key is in the ignition when the negative post is reconnected, the SKIM light is no longer on and the engine fires right up and will run forever. You take the key out, it bogs down for a second, the SKIM light comes back on but the engine runs even with no key inside. Nothing else works though for example the radio doesn’t work with the key off and removed from ignition.

 

hopefully you can get a good price for that bmw don;t let it get to you.

How much water got into cab - was there enough to flood the BCM and underbox fuse box?

how is your electrical skills- using a diagram a DVOM and test light?

I am thinking the ignition switch is a likely place to start somehow shorting power to Fuel pump, ASD, and PCM.
>> The reason I inquired about a remote starter as that would also feed those circuits, and obviously without key..

 

The floor board on the drivers side had about an inch of water in it. The Jeep has a 3 inch lift though and is sitting on 31 inch tires.

My electrical skills are pretty minimal unfortunately. I’ve never used a DVOM but I am sure I could figure it out.

I’m trying to figure this out and do the work myself. Means I will be more capable in the future.

 

get your self a automotive test light - simple to use even for a bmw owner,

I will get some diagrams to attach later today - I will need to find time.

My thinking - Correct me as needed
turn key jeep fires up and runs.
1)the switch has been returned to lock the key is removed, BUT the jeep keeps running?
2) OR the key is removed with it in run position?

So somehow the ASD, fuel pump and PCM are getting 12v - thats where we will look.

 

The key can only be removed when it’s Turned back to the locked position. When you do that it acts like it wants to shut off but then something makes it fire right back up again.

 

thos is the begining of the troubleshoot - somehow there are circuits remaining powered when switch is off.
I will need the follow up diagram for the 3 hot in start run to try and get a plan where the issue may lie.

I mentioned a test light, also a can of 'deoxit' a cleaner conditioner for wiring connections - after the water incident and the circuit testing to come that will be needed.

 

I have a test light now and a can of electrical contact cleaner.