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Advice on changing front end

Discussion in 'General Jeep Discussion' started by bgraff, May 22, 2017.

  1. May 22, 2017 at 12:06 PM
    #1
    bgraff

    bgraff [OP] Member

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    73 360 Engine 4" suspension lift 3" body lift
  2. May 22, 2017 at 12:59 PM
    #2
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I am against shackle reversals which is the only kind of outboarding I've seen of late. Can you weld or do you know someone that does.? Grind your old mounts off unbolt the fronts. Get you a stick of 2x3 3/16 or 1/4in rectangular tubing. Cut you some 8 in lengths and Butt it up even with your frame on the bottom where your old mounts were. Weld them in place. Bolt them on for good measure if you want but not necessary. Weld and bolt your mounts back on. Install your axles and have fun. Of the ones you've chosen, I like the ruff stuff.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2017
    Bob likes this.
  3. May 22, 2017 at 1:16 PM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    Welcome!
     
  4. May 23, 2017 at 8:55 AM
    #4
    bgraff

    bgraff [OP] Member

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    73 360 Engine 4" suspension lift 3" body lift
    I am having issues with understanding how my front end from the 89 dodge will align with the transfer case. I want to swap to a 4 speed transmission but just need to know what I should be looking for that will bolt up to the bell housing I currently have on my 360 from a 73 jeep wagoneer
     
  5. May 23, 2017 at 12:14 PM
    #5
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    The CJ is Passenger drop Tcase right? Dodges have both passenger and drive side pumpkins depending on the year. What side is your pumpkin on in the front? Driver drop or Passenger drop? If it is a passenger drop you can use the axle. If it is a driver drop you can't use it unless you change out the Transfer case. If you can find the 4speed and bell housing out of a Jeep J10 or J20, I believe that it will bolt right up and you should get an amazing 6:1 1st gear granny gear. If you have to switch out the transfercase I would look for a 1968- - 1991 4speed (Muncie SM420 and SM465) and driver drop T-case out of a Chevy 1/2-3/4 ton, and then all you have to do is get the tranny adapter plate from Advanced adapters or Novak adapters. If you go this route you'll need to have your drive shafts fitted to the new T-case, or just order new ones. I like Tom Woods shafts and customer service. Check out the following informative link from Novak-adapters:

    https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/sm465/
     
  6. May 23, 2017 at 12:20 PM
    #6
    bgraff

    bgraff [OP] Member

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    73 360 Engine 4" suspension lift 3" body lift
    they are both passenger side. I will not need the granny gear as most of my off roading will be fairly tame. more for looks with the option of having a decent vehicle to go off road.
    I have done some research on the t18 and dana 300 transmission and transfer case. do you have any opinion on these?

    also any suggestion on a good rear end that I can swap to? would prefer to add disc brakes in the rear also
     
  7. May 23, 2017 at 5:57 PM
    #7
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    There are 2 versions of the T18, 1 with a granny gear of about 6:1 and another with a low gear of about 4:1. The T18 is the Tranny that came behind the Jeep J10 and J20s. It is the tranny I was referring to in my earlier post. The Jeep version is hard to find, but would be a perfect fit for you. Make sure you get the bell housing with the tranny. Cant go wrong with the Dana 300 and There is a Teraflex 4:1 low gear available for it too. If you were to combine the 4:1 low and the 6:1 granny gear you would be able to run a more highway friendly axle gear ratio like 3:55 or 3.73 and still have offroad ability that would make others envious.

    It sounded like you already had your axles. The only 1ton axles I know of that have disc breaks are the 99 and newer fords. I'm sure there are others. I just have not researched them.
     
  8. May 23, 2017 at 6:23 PM
    #8
    bgraff

    bgraff [OP] Member

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    73 360 Engine 4" suspension lift 3" body lift
    I have a good lead on a t18 and dana 300. the 300 needs rebuilt the guy said. is there markings on the transmission to tell what gears it has?
    I don't completely understand all the gearing relationships and what their overall effect is but I'm learning.

    I have bought my front end but do not have the rear as of yet. do you have any suggestions that would make the disc brake modification easier.
    I was lucky to get the bolt pattern on the front end to be the exact same as what I currently have my tires on now. I am running 38" super swampers I was under the impression I will need to run 488 gears to get the best
    all around performance.

    here is what the guy has listed
    T-18, Dana 300, and bellhousing - $300
    This is out of a scout. Price is low cause previous owner never had a vent line install so t-case got water in it. Should be rebuilt. Tranny is in good shape though. Will separate if you'd like

    say it has the granny 6.32:1 gearing. thinks its out of a 1980 scout but wasn't exactly sure.
     
  9. May 23, 2017 at 9:07 PM
    #9
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    2,018
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Sounds like it is a great deal. If it got water in it maybe all you'll have to do is change the oil a few times. You better do some research on Novak adapters website about making it fit. Whatever that front came out of you should look for the rear from the same truck so the bolt pattern will match. There are not any Dana 60s with a 5 x 5.5 lug pattern unless they're custom made. I believe you will have to run with with a Dana 44 in the back if you want to stay with the same bolt pattern. I believe the late 70s Ford 1/2ton will fit as well. Just so you know, once you install chromo axles, and truss and weld your axle tubes that AMC 20 axle you have in the back it is stronger than you could ever build a Dana 44 IMO. Your issue is that it is too narrow even with spacers for your new axle in the front.
     
  10. May 24, 2017 at 5:15 AM
    #10
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    2,018
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Just a thought. What tranny and tcase do you have right now? Should be a T150 and a Dana 20. Both of these are bullet proof and provide the shortest length combination for the best drive shaft geometry. The T150 and The T18 have the same high gear of 1:1. The Dana 20 and the Dana300 are near Identical. The only reason to switch from the T150 is if your trying to find an ultra low granny gear or your switching to an automatic like I'm in the process of. A little information on both:

    https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/t150/

    https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/model-20/
     
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