Reverse the shackles

My first Jeep was an M38A-1 being a military it had reverse shackles on it. Once I installed Saginaw Steering on it in 1965 it steered like a dream. I acquired a 1954 CJ3B with 12K miles on it and am looking to reverse the shackles on it. If I just remove the existing shackle mounts and reverse them am I going to need to do anything else? I will be running Rancho 2inch lift springs and 2 inch longer shackles. As well as installing Saginaw Steering box or maybe a Ford box which goes behind the front cross member. Old school setup for an old school CJ. Will convert to disc brakes on the front and run my 11 inch rear brakes. Have a full floated #43 rear which am considering transferring the full floating hubs to my 44 which has a Detroit in it. Any thoughts or advice?

 

Ahhhh, the reversed shackle debate. Personally, I believe the reversed shackles work better off road but not as well on road. There was a reason Kaiser did not continue that arrangement on the CJ 5. Any hard braking results in a nose dive on road. You will also have to lengthen the front driveshaft. Do a search over at Early CJ5. There should be numerous threads on this topic http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php You should also join that site as it is hands down the most informative site on pre 76 CJ's. There is also a wealth of information on the 3B Page https://cj3b.info/

I also wouldn't be running that long of shackle. It puts all sorts of lateral loading on the bushings that they aren't designed for. I ran my 1955 CJ 3B for decades with 2 1/2" Rancho springs and 1" longer that stock (1/2" lift) VERY beefy shackles. That worked fine but any stock length flat fender springs REALLY limit wheel travel. My latest rendition uses Holbrook 3" lift springs, about 8" longer than stock, on custom hangers. That bought about 17" of wheel travel. Those are unfortunately no longer available but you could get the same design custom made.


I made my own shackles/hangers/bushings/pivot bolts/spring plates/shock mounts.




Some of that is detailed here:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/106011/

And welcome to the ugly duckling club! I purchased my 3B in 1972 as a quick fix after ending wheels up in my 67 CJ5 and thought the 3B was as ugly as ugly gets. But perhaps something akin to an ugly kid, it sort of grew on me and is now my favorite Jeep-period. A year and a half after I bought it, the first small block Chevy (a 327) went in and I have never looked back. The Buick 225 was likely the best stock engine ever used in a CJ but it pales compared to just about any V8, the "any" exception being the AMC 304. My "B" is presently on sbc #4 but that is in it's self is another story.

 

Oh, and did I mention I HATE Detroits? I tried them twice in my 3B (slow learner or poor memory?) and went back to Powr-Loks until this last go-around when ARB's were installed in both ends. Perhaps partially due to the short wheelbase and more than adequate power, but the road manners of the Detroits left more than a little to be desired and those unplanned lane changes were in fact a reality. They did work very well off road but that doesn't really matter if you are dead.

And stick with the Saginaw box. Herm's arrangement can be a can of worms. I've been using a C3 Corvette Saginaw box in my 3B since 1973. It made a very tidy installation. I used the stock GM assist cylinder for decades but it received and axle mounted PSC version on the last build.


The axle housing is a narrowed Ford F250 D44HD with the 1/2" wall tubes. Reid 8 stud Scout II knuckles and Dutchman 4340 shafts.