TJ questions before the build thread commences

So as those of you following my search for a TJ know, I have found the starter Jeep. It's a 2003 TJ X with 200k miles and its 100% stock, but it won't be for long. However, before I start building it up, I have some maintenance and mechanical issues that I want to cover.

The first order of business is dealing with the oil leak(s). It is either coming from the valve cover and/or the rear main seal. Once I replace the valve cover gasket and clean it up a bit, I can see if the RMS needs replaced too. Then I will examine and/or replace belts and hoses as needed.

I've read a thread about spark plugs and the coil rail. The plugs will be replaced, the coil rail if I see any issues with it. If anyone has any thoughts on guidance on any of these tasks, feel free to comment below.

My next area is to examine the suspension components. Given that the Jeep is 16 years old, I'm concerned about bushings and tie rods. Ultimately, I will be doing a 2-3 inch lift with a full set of components, but my questions center around what areas I should concentrate on in the short term to ensure a safe vehicle.

I also will be examining the exhaust and brake components (pads, rotors, shoes and drums). Again, ultimately I am considering doing a disc brake conversion, but that will be in the later stages of this build.

I'm open to all comments and suggestions on ensuring that the base platform is solid before going crazy on upgrades.

Lastly, its been a while since I have tinkered with a TJ and back in those days I had neither the time or the money to truly upgrade very much. My last question is, with the stock Dana 30/35 axle what is the maximum tires size I can run without worrying about killing the axle. I'd like to run 35's but could live with 33's if need be, this also affects the kind of lift I chose too.

Thanks in advance,

Bob

 

I bought an ‘02 TJ 3 years ago with 52k miles. My suspension bushings were all shot, so good chance yours are as well. For tires I would say it depends on how you off-road. Do you like to power through obstacles or finesse it? If you’re not heavy on the gas, you’re probably fine on 33’s. If you like to hammer the gas off-roading, you may want to play it safer with 31-32”. I’m running 37’s on a D30 (D44 rear), but have chromoly axle shafts, I try not to spin the tires, and never use the front locker unless I absolutely have to. The rear axle will be the weak point versus the front for you.

Looking forward to following your build!

 

Planning for this build is both exciting and terrifying. I've already switched plans several times as I read more of other build threads. I'm going to be perfectly happy on 33" tires and the existing axles for now. I originally planned on a disk brake conversion but I'm now re-thinking that and just upgrading the rotors and possibly replacing the drums with new shoes and pads all around. Once I can thoroughly inspect the exhaust I can determine what needs replaced there. Dealing with possible rear main seal, for sure valve cover leaks and just servicing the engine (belts, all hoses, PCV, valve cover and gasket, etc) will keep me busy for a while. But my nature I am fairly impatient and want to plan out a total build over the summer and there are so many things to consider.

 

I totally get that. I bought mine extremely built because I got a great deal. Even so, the planning started day 1 and hasn’t stopped in 3 years. My build plan has changed 1000 times and I’m sure yours will too. That’s half the fun. Next 3 on my list are Fox 2.0 shocks with remote res in the rear to match my fox front shocks, lizard skin for sound and heat insulation on the interior of the tub, then a banks turbo! Then maybe the same thing you’re thinking on brakes as I’m still stock and it’s pretty awful. Just keep asking questions here. @aggrex knows just about everything there is to know about Jeeps and builds. He’s an extremely valuable resource.

 

I agree that planning is fun and I don't have a problem changing my mind. The terror comes from what happens if I spend a bunch of money on "X" and then a month later realize that I wish I had done "Y". That's why I started this thread and will likely start a Pre-build thread to hash out all the options. The issue is, I won't have the Jeep in my possession until Monday, as the seller was out of town until late Sunday night.

Once I can pull it into the garage and up on my ramps and get underneath to get a much better look, I don't know what to plan for on exhaust, brakes and suspension maintenance as well as lift option.

In the meantime if you find the Fox shocks you want, we can get them through our store and we've setup a Coupon Code for Forum members to get free shipping on anything they buy from us at The4x4Guys.com the Coupon Code is JEEPSNETFREE

Thanks

Bob

 

Now that I think about it as you mentioned exhaust . . . Banks is known for turbos and really known for air movement starting at the intake ending at the tail pipe. I believe they have a whole intake intercooler turbo exhaust for under $4k for the TJ. I have always wanted to see that installed and reviewed by another jeeper.

 

Engine - valve cover gaskets thats straight forward, Coil rail be careful with selection there is a PN change between years for a reason, PCV/CCV be sure that is operational as it 'effects' rear main seal, belts hoses straight forward, How is AC?

Suspension - its not NEW so bushings are a judgement call, the suspension tie rods, are easily checked just rocking steering wheel back and forth as yiu observe movement,

BUT that conversion to disk brakes - IDK , I see problems.

You got time build a strong base - engine trans, then the mods, can begin.

 

I have my shopping list covered (I think) for valve cover gasket, coil rail, plugs, plug coil boots, vacuum hose, radiator upper and lower hose, heater hoses, thermostat and gasket (after a drain and flush) , PCV and hose, air filter, and serpentine belt. If after changing the valve cover gasket (and de-greasing engine block and transmission) there is still an oil drip, then replacement of the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, along with oil change and filter will also be done.

The AC appeared to run cold, but I will check further to see if a re-charge is necessary too. So far, no one has suggested changing out the transmission filter and gasket, but that is on my list too.

I've been going back and forth on the disk brake conversion. I watched a YouTube video last night on it and while involved, it does not appear all that difficult. I had already planned on examining and changing the front rotors and pads, the question is in what condition are the rear drums and shoes. It is pretty inexpensive to stay stock with drums and I think there are other areas where I will spend money that are more necessary that a disk conversion, but for some reason I can't seem to drop the idea. I even questioned myself last night if while doing a disk conversion, that wouldn't be a good time to swap out for stronger axles too. No decision, but I have time before I get to that area of this build.

 

That’s what I’m planning to go with, but I’ve seen non-infercooled turbo for about $3300 and intercooled for $4700. Lots of people out there running full banks header back exhaust to find reviews, fewer running turbos.

 

I suggest you build the solid base then the MODS.
How did I omit the trans, a trans Aux COOLER is a must have more basic than a lift or others ideas and I believe in line with a strong base.


If the youtube video is sponsored by the manufacturer or a retail distributor I would be suspicious of anything in it. ie - Did video address any ABS issues that may arise from conversion?

Let us know what is on this weeks plan - so we can add experience and knowledge.

As for rear main seal, drip or stream of oil? might want to defer till trans comes out for something later, and again the PCV/CCV, and valve cover may affect this leak.

 

I agree on the solid base. I pickup the Jeep tomorrow (seller went away for the weekend) but my to do list is pretty much constrained to the engine compartment at this point. I have a long list of To Do's there with plugs, coil rail, hoses, belt, thermostat, valve cover gasket, PCV, etc. Most of my work for the next week or two will involve cleanup (tearing out old carpet) engine compartment, examining exhaust and brakes, which will cause me to create the next phase of the To Do List (rotors, pads, drums, shoes) maybe new emergency brake cable, transfer case cable, etc.


The video on the disk brake conversion was just a couple of younger dudes in their garage, not a professional or sponsored video.....

 

+1 on the aux trans cooler. There is some debate with high mileage trans flushes but proceed if trans fluid is off colored/dirty

 

This Jeep TJ, will be my seventh Jeep (yes, I have an addiction) but first one that will be a refurbishment, all the others were new. Back when I was younger and working on my then older vehicles, I would always buy a Chilton or Hayes service manual for the vehicle to assist when I was in the garage say a long and loud stream of bad words. Typically, something broke or leaked or wouldn't start after I "fixed it". Having a printed reference always seemed to help just a bit.

Is there a decent manual for the 2003 TJ. The manuals I see are for Jeeps from when God created them to just yesterday and know that they can't be much help given the wide range of years, models, and options that exist on that many years. Any suggestions?

 

Get this. Very much worth the money and hard to find in book. It is usually CDrom. I have one for my older CJ7 and For later YJs/Cherokees

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Jeep-Wrangler-service-shop-dealer-repair-electrical-wiring-manual-FACTORY/312238411239?fits=Year%3A2003%7CModel%3AWrangler%7CMake%3AJeep&epid=13019844478

 

If you end up doing the rear main you will have to remove a main bearing cap, check out the bearing while you have it out. You might even pull one from the other end just to compare.
They aren't hard to replace and they are not expensive so while you are already there you might as well check them and replace if needed. Wouldn't hurt to check the rod bearings too, those are even easier to replace.

 

The thought of replacing the rear main seal without a lift reminds me of that old saying that "Ginger Rogers did everything that Fred Astaire did, only backwards in high heals". Working on the TJ, without a lift to remove the top half of the RSM seems daunting enough. The idea that there are other bearings to remove sounds terrifying.... LOL

 

With 200k on the clock, you may also want to consider replacing the timing chain as well. Many may say that the motor is bullet proof, so there is no need to do so. With that much use, the chain does stretch and will throw the timing off affecting how the motor runs.