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Best options buying a new Wrangler Unlimited (Sport and do my own mods or Rubicon and do less)

Discussion in 'Wrangler JK (2007-2017)' started by TommyD630, Oct 4, 2016.

  1. Oct 4, 2016 at 2:35 PM
    #1
    TommyD630

    #1
    TommyD630 [OP] Member

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    Hey everyone, I am looking at getting a 2012 up Wrangler Unlimited. I am planing on a 4"+ lift with 33-35 tires. I will be fabricating my own bumpers, roof rack and probably skid plates underneath. Then some other after market things for interior and engine down the road. I had regular disconnects on the sway bars on my 2002 X that I flipped and did not win back at auction. I didn't mind them. my bottom line is, Would it be worth it to get a Rubi, or is that pointless and get a Sport and do the work? Would I be taking off parts of the Rubi anyway to do what I want? I am not worried about leather, in dash Nav, heated seats, or upgraded stereo that I can put in on my own. I look forward to hearing back and getting started. I have been away from the community for entirely too long. Thank you in advance, you are all awesome!
     
    TommyD630, Oct 4, 2016
    #1
  2. Oct 4, 2016 at 3:30 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    #2
    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    I looked at the same things. I found that the stuff that I wanted, lockers, disco, gears, transfercase gears, etc. , came stock on the rubi, so I got that.
     
    chris4x4, Oct 4, 2016
    #2
  3. Oct 4, 2016 at 3:36 PM
    #3
    TommyD630

    #3
    TommyD630 [OP] Member

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    Did you do a price comparison to see if it would have been cheaper, Or quality of parts comparison? I live in Oregon and used Rubi's are going for right around what a brand new one costs. I'm talking 2012's are advertised for $32,000 and up stock mostly but some with after market parts.
     
    TommyD630, Oct 4, 2016
    #3
  4. Oct 4, 2016 at 3:37 PM
    #4
    chris4x4

    #4
    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    My thing was factoring parts, and my time. I found that, adding my time as labor, the Rubi was the better deal.
     
    chris4x4, Oct 4, 2016
    #4
  5. Oct 4, 2016 at 4:00 PM
    #5
    OFFGRID

    #5
    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Peter
    Houston
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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    You are right. With enough wheeling and dealing you can get a new rubi for what many are asking for their wranglers. For starters a 4 in lift will run 37s without rubbing on the trail. Get highline fenders and you can run 40s. most people wheeling 40s need to run Dana 60 axles to prevent carnage, but a rubi can easily handle 37-38s if you re-gear and run chromo axle shafts. My opinion is if you run 40s get a wrangler and get Dana 60s.
     
    OFFGRID, Oct 4, 2016
    #5
  6. Oct 5, 2016 at 6:07 AM
    #6
    Rc Jeep

    #6
    Rc Jeep Well-Known Member

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    Evo mfg front coil overs Evo mfg rear coil overs Jks drag link flip Je reel 1310 front & rear driveshafts 37" Nitto trail grapplers 17x9 atx slabs Evo mfg quarter pounder w/stinger Evo mfg rear fascia w/ d ring mounts
    The biggest incentive for the rubicon is the transfer case. 4:1 instead of every other model at like 2.7:1 or something like that.
     
    Rc Jeep, Oct 5, 2016
    #6
  7. Oct 5, 2016 at 7:11 AM
    #7
    chris4x4

    #7
    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    I was happy with the Front/Rear lockers, skids, sliders, and gears too :eek:
     
    chris4x4, Oct 5, 2016
    #7
  8. Oct 5, 2016 at 7:50 AM
    #8
    OFFGRID

    #8
    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    On a side note I have an 08 JKU that I keep in Moab at my parents place bone stock except for a 4 in teraflex short arm lift, rear locker and 37s and no swaybar. I bought it from a trail guide 2year ago with 45000 miles most of it on the trails and to and from. I have put another 5000 on it getting to and from the trails around town when I'm there and on the trails. The only thing I've broken on it is sheared off the pitman arm to TRE bolt. How you drive can prevent breakage.
     
    OFFGRID, Oct 5, 2016
    #8
    C2T likes this.
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