93 ZJ O2 Sensor

I guess for the start of my fixing adventure I'm going to replace the O2 sensor. I see about four brands of O2 sensors from local parts stores. Bosch, Denso, Walker, and NTK. Which brand is suitable and trustworthy for my 93 ZJ ?

 

Also, can somebody tell me how to get it off easily?

 

NTK need a second opinion.... your ugly to seriously NTK only.

The correct tool an o2 sensor socket, lots of PB Blaster - start when cool and sometimes when hot may help...

Why are you doing an o2 sensor?

 

If the old O2 sensor gives you any hassle coming off with a HF O2 sensor socket just clip the wires and use a regular 6 pt socket.

 

FYI: Bosch O2 sensors have too many negative reviews to recommend.

 

Ok. The O2 sensor was one of the trouble codes...

51 - A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)

 

no no no - the sensor is the messenger - we don't shoot the messenger - (not right away).
If you overheated would you change the temp sender OR address the reason for high temps?

The 5.2 is prone to vacuum leaks also I would ask - How is exhaust system any leaks, and even low fuel pressure would cause a lean condition .

You have some other issues that need prioritizing.
Is this a high priority ?

 

Where do you suggest I start? I just got paid today and our local salvage yard is doing 40% off all parts the next three days. Can you help me come up with a game plan so I can take advantage of this deal going on at the salvage yard?

 

I cant remember all that is going on with the jeep old age or bourbon IDK..


What issues are you dealing with?

 

One bourbon, one scotch, one beer...

Think there is a ebay CAT converter thread.....

 

Lmao ! Well it kind of is a lot. First I've lost all my tools so I'll have to replace those as well as my parts. But my grandpa and uncle have some to use in the meantime. I would like to troubleshoot these things before jumping the gun and putting money on something that's probably not going to fix it.

The problems

Well, the trouble code 51, I thought was a bad sensor or bad cat. I still think I should change the cat because it rattles whenever the engine is running.

The oil pressure runs 55 - 60 PSI at idle and while I'm accelerating on the highway and city streets. The dipstick also shows overfilled.

I need to replace my two front tires but my front passenger tire is still stuck seems like the only option is to cut it off with a torch and I have to pay somebody to do that.

When and after I've driven for a while and let off the gas pedal, the car acts as if it wants to come to a stop for a split second and howls as it decelerates. I check my rear end fluid and it was low so I added gear fluid to it and I haven't experienced this again yet.

I have a light blue smoke or white and it's very light and faint that comes out of my tailpipe and it hasn't been cold here since February. I don't have a coolant leak because my oil doesn't look like chocolate milk. Which is another reason why I thought maybe it's a faulty O2 sensor.

My motor mounts are shot and need to replace them.

I believe my wheel hub bearings are clicking or ticking when I make left and right hand turns and no clicking and ticking as I'm going straight on or just switching lanes. Not sure if it's the hub bearings, the brakes, or the tires but it's an on and off sound as I turn and sounds a little scrapish

 

1) the trouble code 51, low priority, junk yard 'sale' wont help here.
2) oil pressure runs 55 - 60 PSI, low priority again no help at sale.
2a) dipstick also shows overfilled. keep eye on this, fuel, coolant maybe. Who did oil change?
3) cut it off with a torch and I have to pay somebody to do that. Talk to a local shop, might want a hub and or wheel from junkyard - find out this is weekend priority.
4) howls as it decelerates. OK you added rear oil and are hopeful as its quiet.. sierra hotel.
5) light blue smoke or white - keep eye on fluids but low priority and nothing at junk yard would help,
6) motor mounts - lets wait on this anyway junk yard wont help here.
7) clicking or ticking - need to inspect and removing wheels brings us back to #3

SO looks like #3 is the next project, talk to a local shop - maybe a local tire installer as they MIGHT deal with this more often, discuss what may be damaged and need replacing. And if other than studs, lugs that is junk yard list.

 

Old rusty CAT converter heat shields tend to rattle. EZ to remedy by removal or strapping on tightly.
If the dipstick is over-filled perhaps remove the excess to slow down the leaks and lower the pressure.

 

Can't keep driving like that. Get tire service done or cut the lug nut off or drill off the studs. Once removed studs are cheap to replace.

 

How do I remove the heat shield or strap it down ?

 

Assuming the CAT converter noise in your situation is a loose heat shield a stainless steel band clamp could secure the heat shield and stop the annoying rattling. Sometimes the rusty heat shield will simply fall off on its own with or without the band clamp.

 

How could I just take it off? Or is it needed?

 

Observe whether the heat shield is rattling before proceeding. Heat shields do serve a purpose like preventing forest fires LOL

 

What can I brace it with without getting burned?