Dana 30 pinion seal issue

I have removed my leaking front Dana 30 pinion seal and prepped the new one to go in. It is a National part # 710461 which both Rock Auto and O'Reilly's claims is the correct pinion seal. However, unlike all the videos I've watching on changing this seal, putting the new one is quite a challenge. Everyone show some light hammer tapping around the perimeter of the seal and its in.

I have tapped and tapped and tapped and I still have a good quarter inch of seal showing and it seems not wanting to budge any further. Is this really the right seal? Should it be this hard to insert?

I managed to get the pinion seal in about 25% of the way, and it was not budging no matter what I did. I didn't want to damage the diff housing by forcing it and when i tried to take it out, I ended up damaging the seal anyway, so I am going to need another one regardless.

Here is a pic of the seal I removed and a pic of the second one I've purchased (first one from O'Reiley's could not be inserted beyond 1/2 way and the second one from NAPA)

Should I be putting grease or RTV on this damn thing before inserting?

Here is the new one.


Here is the O'Reiley's version that would not go any futher that 25% of the way in and I damaged it taking it out.

 

I have done the rear. It tapped right in. I have one for the front in the garage. I will look at it tomorrow and see if it looks the same as yours. I went to change it but I was unable to get the nut off. I is not leaking to bad. Mostly a seep. So I forgot about it. I have bigger problems. (rust)

 

I wish it "tapped right in" I had a block of wood across it that I was pounding on, I even used a small ball peen hammer to "tap" on it, all with no luck. I was lucky to get it partially in all the same depth (not cocked) but it just stopped moving.

Here is a pic (front and back) of the original (bottom left) the one I damaged getting back out after getting it partially in (bottom right) and the new one I will be trying tomorrow (top center)

 

Following.... Have one I need to do too.

 

I have/had the right tools - 1 1/8in socket, breaker bar, impact wrench, seal puller, etc. Getting the drive shaft off was relatively easy. Get the yoke off was bit more of a challenge, but off it came. Getting the seal out was a bit of a struggle, but ten to fifteen minutes in, it came flinging out.

I thought, this is a relatively easy project. Then trying to get that damn pinion seal back in (the new one) was far harder than the videos I watched gave it credit for. I ended up chickening out before something broke and took it out, bent it and had to go get another one. Now I am waiting for words of wisdom.

I tried using RTV on the one that got stuck, unless I hear otherwise by tomorrow, I will be trying grease instead given the nice bead of sealer that is on the new seal.

 

Take one of those seals to the Dodge house and compare to the seal they say fits it

 

Hell if they have one, I'd buy it just to try.

 

The truth of the matter is, I bought a seal on Rock Auto, but it came with the inner part of the seal, but not the oil slinger (cover). So I went to O'Reiley's and they sold me a complete package with the cover already inserted into the seal. This is the one I bent trying to get it back out. Then I went to NAPA and bought the unused one in the pics above.

So I still have the inner part from Rock Auto, the damaged one from O'Reiley's, a new one from NAPA and finally the one that was leaking that I removed.

 

jeep speak this is a FBI 181 (dana 30).

I wonder if the pinion bearing has walked outward a bit and not fully seated in the race.
I would not expect it to move after this long a time BUT.
>> How much trouble was removing the yoke from pinion?

With the diff cleaned up you should notice the 'groove' where the seal will set there is a lip @the depth the seal will rest into - compare to replacements.


Seal #5072 473AA

 

The yoke took a bit of effort. In fact, I used a gear puller to loosen it up enough to pull out, but it wouldn't budge by hand or with few taps of persuasion with my rubber mallet.

 

I was thinking if yoke removed easily you could reinstall without seal to determine if bearing is still seated - if the yoke would not return to position it would be a clue....

Ok will post if I get another idea.

 

The saga continues, I went to the Jeep dealer and bought yet another pinion seal. This time they asked for a VIN before looking up the axle and pinion part number. Here is the dilemma, The part I have from Rock Auto, NAPA, and Mopar all look different.

Both the Rock Auto and Mopar seals do not have a "cap" or oil slinger (I think its called). The Jeep dealer tells me that my VIN and axle do not call for this part. The Napa and O'Reiley's version both came with them. Further, the sides of the two different seals are different, see pics below What I tore off the Jeep that was leaking had one, which is correct?


Rock Auto on the right, NAPA and Mopar both look like the one on the left.



What I removed from the Jeep and the NAPA and O'Reiley's look like the one on the left, with the cover. Both the Rock Auto and Mopar look like the one on the right.



So I have three choices to install.

1) Rock Auto with no cover and "notched sides"
2) Napa with a cover and no notched sides
3) Mopar with no cover and no notched sides.


Does the cover serve a purpose?

 

no time -
did you notice the machined recess in Diff for seal?

 

There is no machined notch like the one seal. The inside of the diff has about a 1/2 lip before it opens up to the shaft and bearings.

I'm reluctant to use the seal with that notch, since it would only seal about half of the available space on the diff opening, but I'm certain I could get it installed flush easier. I do not plan to use it.

The real question is do I need the seal with the cover cap (oil slinger?) or not?

 

looking at the book I attached it shows the slinger as a separate part - Did your jeep dealer mention this to you?

They would have the latest manuals and with them asking for vin I suspect they were searching by build sheet,

I will ck back later.

 

He showed me the screen and the slinger was greyed out and he said for my VIN that part was not called for.

So I have two choices with a seal with notched sides - NAPA with a slinger and Mopar without a slinger.

 

I just took a pic of the real diff seal and it does not have the cover (oil slinger) either, which tempts me towards using the Mopar part I bought without the cover/slinger.

 

I'm telling you guys Awrench is either a senior line mechanic for Jeep or a service manager. He just don't want to flaunt his wears so he's keeping it low key. He's probably forgot more about Jeep's then most of us will ever learn.

 

+1 agreed!

 

I ultimately used the Mopar version of the seal. With a wood block as leverage, I was able to successfully get it into place. I put a little grease on the edge of the seal and inside the diff machined edge. It was no piece of cake, but it didn't bind or stop as the others did. It does not have the cover (or oil slinger I've heard it called) but it worked. I also lubed the machined yoke shaft and the rubber seal with the spring in it. I have fingers crossed that it will be as dry looking as the others.

Bob