4:88 gears vs 4:1 Tcase

Sweet thanks.

This sux my crawl ratio is only 47:1 even with 4:88s.

I was hoping for a 75:1 crawl ratio but for that I would need a 4:1 t case and 5:13 gears.

 

Are you unhappy with the way that it crawls?
Generally around 50-60:1 is considered optimum. The torque converter will also add a little to your crawl ratio.
If you were running a 4 cylinder with larger tires and wanted to crawl you would need a lower overall crawl ratio but with a decent 6 cylinder I would imagine 50-60 would be good. Tires also has an effect on it but for some reason isn't included in the calculation.

My crawl ratio is only 36.98:1... of course I am only running 31-33" tires.

 

Just wish I had more torque in the lower end.

I would need 5:13 gears for a 50:1 which is overkill for my 35s. I would do the 513s if i had a Rubicon cuz for me the crawl ratio would make up for the poor highway driving.

I might just do 4:88. So frustrated I didn't buy a Rubicon instead. Just didn't think I'd get this much into wheeling it.

 

I bet you can find a Rubi Tcase for around $1500. It would be a direct bolt in. I have heard that the mounting flanges might need to be changed (not sure on this). If so you could possibly find used rubi drive shafts or maybe swap over your flanges to the Rubi Tcase. I have not personally done this swap nor known anyone who has done it, only what I've read. You would get a decent crawl while still maintaining good highway.

 

Rubi t case was main selling point for me.

Still crawl just fine in 4:10 and 37s. Highway is different story.

 

Sliders will get swapped for better protection. The lockers do fail. Most of the time just a magnet that needs cleaning I figured they would get swapped at some point as well.

 

This is a old thread but I need a little info on how the hell to regear. Well more of what’s involved. Is it just taking out the old gears and putting in new ones. (I’m looking to regear this summer) like @HardHat420 i do a lot of mudding and don’t want lockers right now would like to regear instead. Any info would be greatly appreciated

 

Regear is usually something an axle shop takes care of. I only know one guy that does his own work on gears. Generally $1200-$2000 to regear.

 

I have a couple people I know that have race cars n what not. But the wife’s uncle has a 2014 sport with 4:88 gears he did by hisself but he lives in Long Island so a shop might be best maybe unles I can get a friend to do it. Or would lockers be a better idea? Wanna do whatever is less costly to me at the moment

 

Just an fyi: generally the time and expense to upgrade gearing is also the best time for lockers. Separating the two tasks will result in separate labor expenses. Start saving now......

 

Didn’t even think of that thanks aggrex

 

Agreed. I do my own gearing, and spent a lot of time reading and researching till I felt comfortable enough to attempt. The tools to do the job correctly cost me $2000+/-, but I am a lot anal when it comes to doing things correctly. My friends have since showed me that no-one does it like me and they say it is a waste of time. I will also say that all of the pros who post videos on Youtube do it like my friends. That being said the labor here in Houston is anywhere between $400-700 an axle. Aggrex is correct about if you are going to regear it is also the time to install lockers so as to not pay the labor twice.

 

A little late but as mentioned already regearing should be done with lockers. No sense in opening the diff twice.

As far as cost difference, any selectable locker will run about $1k. Plus labor.

Gears are less expensive. They're also easy to find from people selling them cheap because they decided to go a different route. I recently saw g2 488s for $160. Labor is the same as with lockers.

 

I still haven't stopped laughing at that caption. The jeep sitting there with that wide stance you can almost see it saying that.